2019-2020 RAM 1500 Rough Country Dual 6 Inch Chrome Series LED Grille Kit Review & Install

Hey guys, it's Sara with americantrucks.

com, and today we have a review an install of the Rough Country Dual 6-Inch Chrome Series LEDGrille Kit, fitting your '19 and newer Ram 1500 Big Horn, Laramie, and Tradesmen models.

This is perfect for the Ram owner who wantsto add auxiliary lighting to the front of their Ram and like the subtle look of thiskit that blends right into the factory grille.

This complete kit includes twin single row6-inch LED light bars, as well as brackets that mount to your factory grille adding lightingto the front of your Ram.

So, this is gonna improve nighttime visibilitywhen you're off-roading thanks to these light bar's flood beam pattern.

These light bars feature clear shatter resistantlenses with aluminum housings and the highest rating for waterproofing for electronics aswell as a lumen output of 2, 800 lumens.

So, as far as price goes, this one comes inat around $175 which puts it on the lower end price wise when compared to other options.

And for your money you are getting this completekit which sits flush in your grille, where most other options are just pod lights whichwill be a lot harder to fit.

I'm giving this install a two out of threewrenches on the difficulty meter.

It does require cutting of your factory grillewhich can be tedious.

So, Rough Country suggests you cut out aboutfive to six hours of your day for this install.

But with that said, let's jump into your install.

For this install you will need ratchets oran impact gun, 8, 10, 11 and 12-millimeter sockets, a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench, pop clip removal tool, flathead screwdriver, a body saw and a 5 and 4-millimeter Allenkey.

You will may also want some scotch tape toprotect your grille.

All right, so the first step in our installis to grab a pop clip removal tool or a flathead if you don't have one and remove all the popclips that are holding in our rad support cover.

All right, with all the pop clips removedon this rad support cover, grab the front part and pull up.

It needs to clear the posts that are stickingthrough, also needs to clear the fenders on each side, and remove it.

Now, with the rad support cover removed, wedo need to remove two more pop clips right above the headlight.

Using your pop clip removal tool or a flatheadscrewdriver get under and remove them.

Repeat that on the other side, there shouldbe another identical one right above the other headlight.

All right, next up we're gonna remove the10-millimeter bolts that hold on this top plastic trim piece because we do need to removethis to get to our grille.

Grab a 10-millimeter socket, and we're usingan electric ratchet just to speed it up, a regular ratchet will work.

All right, so with all the bolts on top removed, you can pull this off in one piece.

Next up, to get to the bolts that hold thebottom of the grille in we need to remove this plastic fascia piece that's right ontop of the bumper between the headlight and the bumper.

There's two 8-millimeter bolts, we need toremove those now.

There is one more bolt that holds on thisplastic piece and you can get to it through this small hole between the fender and theplastic piece itself.

You will need a 10-millimeter wrench, we'regonna try a ratcheting wrench to remove this.

All right, so once you remove the three boltsin the wheel well you can grab this piece and pull it off to release it from the clips.

Now, if this has not come off before it maybe difficult.

But if you just grab it and pull back niceand quickly it should come off.

All right, so this last corner is hung upon one of these plastic tabs which is how this is held onto the truck.

Now, if it is hung up and you can see it, grab a small, a thin trim power removal tool.

Just go in between and release the tab.

If you're worried about hurting any of thepaint or the grille, you can tape this off with masking tape.

Now, we can repeat that process on the otherside.

All right, now if this third bolt is a littlebit too difficult to get to with your wrench you can remove more of the wheel well linerjust to get a better angle on it.

All right, so next up now that we can seethese three bolts, they all have to be removed to release the bottom portion of our grille.

So, grab your 10-millimeter socket and let'sget these out.

Repeat that on the other side.

Next up we can remove the four 10-millimeterbolts that are holding in the top of the grille.

All right, so with the bolts removed, we'regonna pull up on these tabs to release the grille and then it should remove right off the front of the truck.

All right, at this point with the grille out, we have it laid on the table and we're gonna remove the surround from the actual grilleitself.

There should be several little 8-millimeterbolts, we're gonna take that out to separate the grille from its surround.

Next up, we're gonna release these plasticclips to separate the two pieces of our grille.

There is a small little window you can gointo from the side or you can just push back with your hand and just release it like that.

We're gonna release these three in this sectionhere just to make it a little easier.

And then pulling up, you can use your flatheadfor this as well.

Just pull up to make sure they're fully released, this will help us get to the rest of them.

All right, take another pass around, makesure they're all released and you can help them out by prying up at the edges.

Don't forget about these four on each sideof the grille here, these also needs to be released.

All right, once you've released the last clipon the grille, it should come right out.

All right, so in order to fit our pod lights, we need to cut around the plastic part right on the inside edge of the chrome of this grille.

Now so we don't damage the chrome sectionwe're just gonna hit some painters tape right on the edge here just to put something betweenthe saw and the plastic.

This is not necessary, but I just take a littleadded protection so we don't hurt the grille at all.

Also, it is worth noting that the light willsit a little bit up so if you do clip the edge.

You can mark this off if you would like, we'regonna use the edge of the chrome as sort of our guide, we wanna get as close to it aspossible without cutting into it.

All right, so you're gonna get your body saw, reciprocating saw and we're just gonna cut right around on the edge like that.

Remember, you can always take more out later.

So, if you want to just play it safe, thenyou can come back in with a file or take another pass with this, that will work.

I'm cutting this out in sections just so wecan get a better angle on everything.

And again, we can come back and just cleanup this rough edge later with the saw or with a file.

All right, now I'm just gonna continue withdoing this in sections because this is a little bit easier, the plastic kind of wants a moldback to itself.

So I'm just gonna cut up this piece, and thenI'll finish my loop around on the end.

All right, so once we repeat that processon the other side and both of your holes are cut and cleaned up, we can install the lightbars.

We're gonna install them to the bracket surroundsfirst by lining up these two holes to each side of the light bar.

Now, keep in mind where your battery is onthe truck.

So, I'm gonna route both of these pigtailsout towards the left side which will be the driver side to go to our battery.

Using your Allen head hardware with a washerand a lock washer, go ahead and thread them into the light.

Using the included Allen key, tighten thesedown.

All right, now we can repeat that with theother side.

All right, now we can install them into ourgrille.

Install the light by installing the wiringharness through your grille, press it into place, install your hardware.

And this bracket goes on the other side andsits flush against this and holds it in.

Repeat that on the other side.

Now, depending on how much you took off theselights might sit a little bit snug, but once the brackets are on, they should sit nicely.

All right, so we're holding the Allen headside with a 4-millimeter Allen key, and we're gonna use an 11-millimeter socket on the locknut side and tighten it down.

Remember you are tightening into the plasticof the grille, so don't overtighten these.

And as you can see the formation of the bracketwe really couldn't see that well last time, it's flat up against the front piece and it'scatching each of the sides hold in place.

Repeat that with the other bolt.

Repeat on the other side.

All right, now I can lay the back part ofour grille back over top and snap it into place.

Grab the hardware and reinstall it.

All right, so now we can run our wiring harness, I'm gonna start by running the two connectors that go to the lights in the grille down frombehind the rad support and through so that we can hook them up later.

The rest of the wiring harness will then goto the battery and then into the truck for our switch.

Gonna leave them here for now, then we cantuck away our excess and zip tie it out of the way later on.

All right, now we can hook it up to the battery.

Now, we do need to mount this relay somewhereand there is two bolts here that hold on the bracket for the ECU.

I'm gonna use the one that's farther nearthe negative terminal on the battery.

We're gonna mount it up there and then we'regonna attach our positive and negative terminals to the battery.

All right, so the first thing we're gonnado is pull this bolt out.

Again, you can mount the relay wherever youlike, but this is a pretty convenient spot.

This is a 10-millimeter bolt.

All right, now that the relay is mounted upwe can remove these two nuts on the positive and negative terminals of our battery in orderto mount up these eyelets.

And if you are concerned you can disconnectthe battery completely before you do this, but we should be fine as long as we're carefuldoing it this way.

Using a 10-millimeter socket, disconnect thenegative terminal on the battery.

Now, this is not the main terminal, this isjust this nut here, so we can slip the eyelet over top.

Using a 12-millimeter socket, remove thisnut on the positive side of the battery.

Place the positive eyelet over the positiveterminal and reinstall the nut.

Using your 12-millimeter socket, tighten itdown.

Replace the positive side.

Now, it is worth mentioning that anywherethat gets you positive and negative power and ground to your lights will work, you don'thave to go over the battery.

But I believe this is a pretty easy way andconvenient with how long the wiring harness is.

Now, replacing the nut on the negative sideand using our 10-millimeter socket, tightening it down.

Make sure these wires are tucked out of theway and zip tie them if necessary.

All right, so now we're gonna run the switchfor our lights.

Now, I've taken the switch connector off theend here so we can just run this.

There's several ways you can run this, youcan go through the fender, but I think it's a little bit cleaner if you go through oneof the grommets in the firewall.

There are several to choose from but I thinkthe easiest one is underneath this large plastic connector just behind the battery.

You should be able to pull it out to the sideat least, run this through, and then we'll get the other side underneath our dash.

Now, we're gonna pull it through the holein the firewall.

Now, we can connect our switch.

Now, I think we should go through this boothere around our steering wheel and just pop it out like this.

So, I'm gonna run that through the bottomof this boot.

Again, however you choose to route this istotally fine.

Just make sure the wiring is out of the wayof all your moving parts.

We're gonna aim for right about there.

Peel the adhesive off the back of your switch.

Make sure the surface is clean, we're gonnastick it down.

Now that you pulled the wire out from underneathyour dash, connect it to the wire we pulled through the firewall, you should see yourswitch light up.

And now we do need to fold up this excesswiring and zip tie it underneath the dash out of the way so that does not interferewith the pedals.

All right, now you can plug in your connectors.

Make sure you hear click.

Now, we're gonna install our grille and thenwe're just gonna double check that these are sitting where we want them.

And then we can zip tie them out of the wayto make sure they're not interfering with anything.

Line up your grille, make sure they're overthese two posts by the headlights and then reinstall the hardware.

All right, now I can reinstall the lower hardwareon our grille.

And tighten them down.

Repeat that on the other side.

Now you can reinstall the bolts holding inthe top of your grille.

Now you can reinstall these trim pieces bylining up all of the tabs to the holes right underneath the headlight.

There should be two on the grille as well.

Just press them into place.

Line up the corner and press it into place.

All right, so now we can reinstall the boltsthat hold on this piece from the side.

Now, if you did take out extra bolts out ofyour wheel well liner in order to get to this a little better, remember to put those backin.

Then using your 10-millimeter socket, or 10-millimeterratcheting wrench, tighten this down.

Make sure that you're tucking back in yourfender liner and reinstalling any of the bolts that you took out.

Repeat that process on the other side.

And once that trim piece is in place, reinstallthe bolt in the wheel well.

Using either your 10-millimeter socket or10-millimeter ratcheting wrench tighten this down.

All right, now you can replace the chrometrim piece at the top.

Line up each post underneath each fender andline up all the bolt holes and the tabs up top and press it into place.

Now we can replace the pops clips.

Now you can replace your rad support cover.

Make sure it's tucked in to the fender oneach side and over top of all these posts, line up the holes and install the power clips.

All right, so that is going to do it for thereview and install of this grille kit.

And remember for all things Ram, keep it atamericantrucks.

com.

.

Leave a Reply