Today's project on Creativity Hero isthis wood and acrylic color changing LED lamp.
It came out wonderful.
I think thecombination between wood, acrylic and light is a perfect match betweenmaterials that complete each other.
Now let's begin.
I started with setting upthe table saw by placing the crosscut sled and adjusting the stop block andthe blade to be able to make all the cuts.
For this project I used 20millimeters thick beech wood and 5 millimeters thick acrylic.
The base ofthe lamp is 16 by 9 centimeters, which means that all of the cuts are repeated.
Only one piece of acrylic needs to be larger, around 28 by 14 centimeters andit will be placed vertically on the top of the base.
While cutting the acrylic, Inoticed that when I cut slower the acrylic started to melt, so I needed tomove the sled faster in order to get nice and clean cuts.
Here are all thepieces cut to size.
There are links to everything in thedescription below.
After I made all the cuts, I moved on to the larger piece ofacrylic that will stay on top of the lamp.
I placed it on a piece of paper, traced its outlines with a pencil and cut it following the lines.
Then, I took aruler and drew some lines.
In fact, I wanted to make a pattern which consistsof stripes with the same width, but different length.
I made all the cutsand I got this nice pattern that I'll transfer to the acrylic.
To attach thepaper on the acrylic I removed the protective film on one side and used atape to secure it in place.
On the side that I'm going to engrave, I didn'tremove the protective film, because the acrylic scratches easily.
To engrave theacrylic I decided to use my new Dremel rotary tool.
I won this multi-tool as aGrand prize on Instructables contest Workshop Hacks Challenge.
The packageincludes so many accessories and attachments that can be used in anyproject which is awesome for makers and DIYers.
For thisproject, I attached the flex shaft extension and inserted an engraving bit, which makes engraving much easier and accurate.
Now, I'm ready to start.
Acrylicengraving is a technique that I'm going to try for the first time.
That's why Ichose this simple pattern, which will help me achieve modern and clean designof the lamp.
A metal ruler can help a lot in making perfectly straight lines, so Ihighly recommend using one for this purpose.
I it is very easy to use and itcannot be damaged with the bit.
Once I'm done engraving, I can make all theadditional cuts with a coping saw.
All the cuts should be done at aright angle, so I need to be careful here.
At this point I'm done with the largeracrylic piece, so I can move on to the base.
I marked the center points of thepieces of wood and acrylic that will be placed in the middle of the base.
Theopenings for the LEDs I made using a 35 millimetres hole saw bit that I attachedonto the drill.
A scrap wood underneath is a great way to protect the tablesurface from damage.
On the top of the lamp base I need to make a slot largeenough to fit the engraved acrylic piece.
Placing the acrylic vertically in themiddle, I traced its outline with a pencil.
So, I drilled as many holes asneeded inside the outline and after that removed the excess with a rasp.
LEDs willbe placed right below the acrylic, so I need to make a space for them bychiseling out a groove around 10 millimeters wide and 4 millimeters deep.
This is the LED controller that will be placed on the bottom of the base.
Eventhough it is quite big, I'll find a way to insert it into the bottom.
Instead ofmounting it with some screws, I'll attach it with a hot glue only, so I'm cuttingoff these mounting holes in order to flatten the box.
On that wooden piece Ineed to make a large opening for the controller.
To make the opening, I drilleda hole with 12 millimeters bit, and theninserted a coping saw into the hole to make the cut.
Using a rasp, I made someadjustments.
Now, I'm drilling two holes on the back side of the bottom, one largerfor the adapter and another smaller for the Infrared receiver.
The lamp base canfit 50 centimeters long LED strip, so I'm carefully cutting with scissors alongthe designated lines in between the copper pads.
The last step before puttingall the parts together is removing the protective film from the acrylic.
Toassemble the lamp I started from the top and glued the LEDs into the groove withan epoxy.
Then continued gluing the other pieces with an epoxy making sure I don'tdamage the LEDs.
Epoxy is one of the best adhesives for gluing acrylic to wood, andI highly recommend it.
Once I put all the parts together, I clamp it down and waituntil it is completely dry.
I temporarily put the LEDs inside the hole, protectingthem with a masking tape iIn order to be able to send the base.
Then, I lightlysanded the entire base to make it nice and smooth.
With that done, I can apply atransparent finish to emphasize the natural beauty of the wood.
Now, let'smove on to the controller installation.
The cable on the controller is a littlelong, and I need to cut it off.
I cut half of its length and removed around 1centimeter of the outer insulation.
It consists of 4wires, 1 common positive, and 3 negative wires foreach of the 3 channels.
I exposed the ends of the wires using wire strippersand then solder them onto the copper pads of the LED strip.
Here you cannotice that although the colors of the wires are in order, they don't match theletters on the copper pads.
The green wire is soldered onto the R and the redwire onto the G.
To check if they work properly I plug the 12V adapterinto the controller.
Everything works great, so I can glue the controller onthe bottom of the base with a hot glue.
I carefully placed the LEDs inside thebase, then inserted the Infrared receiver into the hole, and finallysecured the controller in place by hot gluing it.
To make sure the bottomdoesn't scratch any surface, I'm cutting out some squares out of felt for feet.
Two squares in each corner will make enough space for the controller.
Lastly, Iremoved the protective film from the engraved acrylic piece, and used an epoxyto secure it into the slot.
Using the right angle ruler, I'm making sure thatit is positioned correctly, and leaving it to dry.
This means that I'm done withthis project.
Now I can turn it on and enjoy this amazing color-changing lamp.
It is very simple and modern, and I think it would make a perfect accent in aliving room.
Thanks for watching.
This was a really interesting and fun process ofcreating such lamp, and I hope you like it.
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