DIY LED Matrix Table Lamp || Arduino-Controlled || How to Make

What's up makers?! Mike Clifford here and today I'm going to show you how I created this LED desk lamp.

I'm calling it the”living art” desk lamp because when you fire it up, it'll do all kinds of coolvisualization patterns.

It's also really practical as a normal desk lamp becauseyou could switch the mode so it gives out a nice white light and a warm whiteor a cool white color of your choosing it also has a red light as a nightlightsetting hey everyone real quick I realized as I was about to start editingthat I totally forgot one really important thing from my openingmonologue there and that was that I made three of these things too and bambooplywood and one in walnut which had not seen here the reason I made three ofthem is because I'm celebrating fifty thousand subscribers with a giveaway assoon as I figure out the logistics of organizing the giveaway which should besometime within the next week I'll make an announcement here and on Instagram sokeep your eye out for that and you can win one of these and some other coolprizes but now let's get to the build to construct the main miter box for thelight I used some scrapped bamboo plywood and scrap walnut plywood that Ihad lying around since the scraps were different sizes I used differenttechniques with the table saw to cut the pieces and it looks a bit morecomplicated than it is but in the end of the day it's just four identicalrectangles with 45-degree edges and you can cut them any way you like with thetable saw circular saw or miter saw since we're making this look morecomplicated than it is figured why not have some fun and have some dramaticb-roll music to go along with oh man maybe I've been watching too manyPD McKinnon videos but I have fun with that let me know what you think back tothe build the front of the light is made from a one-eighth inch sheet of acrylicand your table saw blade is probably also one eighths of an inch so it prettymuch works perfectly to cut a slot in the four sides of your box to hold theacrylic from Sparta's optional but I use the routerto give the edges of the light a nice clean look making the first light Irouted what would be the front outer edges of the light first before the glueup and I realized afterwards it was a mistake because the 45 degree mitercorners got a lot of tear out when going through the router bit next I used arabbeting bit on all four sides of what would be the back of the lamp to cut outthe rabbet for the back panel this I do recommend doing before the glue upbecause it gives you square corners in your rabbit while I'm cutting theacrylic sheets for the front of the lights I just want a quick minute remindyou that if you like my videos please click the subscribe button to getnotified about future builds and click the like button below to let YouTubeknow you like it it really does help me out and helps me keep going and makingvideos for you guys before the glue up I use the tape as a clamp technique andthere are plethora of videos about this so just search that if you need tofigure it out I won't go into detail here the one thing I did do differentlywas to use the acrylic front panel and put it into the slots I cut in the foursides to hold them in place and make it easier to square up at the box duringthe glue this worked really well you just got to be careful not to get glueonto the acrylic panel I cut the square back panels for thelights from quarter inch MDF using my new funky crosscut sled okay so I gotour digress and talked about this funky crosscut sled because I didn't expect tolike it as much as I did shop projects normally aren't my thing so I want toknow if I can add some adducts realist to some trout project would you like tosee some video for those on my channel will leave a comment and let me know sohere I'm just marking and drilling a quarter inch hole that will accept thepower jack and three three-quarter inch holes that will allow air to circulateand prevent overheating of the LEDs our glue up is now dried so I removed allthe tape from the box and went about drilling a hole to accept the LED pushbutton I use these same LED push buttons in my Bluetooth speaker built andinserted them into the wood in the same way and it's a little bit tricky so ifyou plan to make this go back and watch that video to get the details on thisprocess don't know what I cut myself on but actual blood sweat and tears goinginto your lab before moving on to the base I want to back up and revisit thepoint about mistakenly routing the edges of the lamp before the glue up for thesecond two I routed the edges after the glue up and it worked much better sowe're in the middle this project and ran into a design dilemma my original planwas to use these steel flat irons and paint them white and then just attachthose to this LED matrix so that we can rotate and then I'm just gonna use maybesome bamboo or the same kind of wood to attach this to the base but I justdidn't like how it looked so back to the drawing board next idea was well maybeI'll make a statement and I'll put him on a live edge cookie slam so I gotthese big slabs and I just tried how they looked on top of them and it justwasn't working at all though we're getting even worse now finally what Iarrived on which i think is gonna look pretty cool was just to usea u-shaped bass made out of the same material that we're making the box outof going to take your 3/4 inch dowels which have the quarter inch tapped holedrilled in them insert them into the matching 3/4 inchhole put those into the 3/4 inch pulls and the sides of the lamp and now youcan kind of tilt this around you can direct the light down you can direct itup gotta do it it's kind of like even like an old spotlight we're gonna usebrass thumb screws here on the side that are quarter inch go into the threadedholes in the Dow hold it together so you can lock it in place or unlock it tomove it around without any further ado let's get going let's put the spacetogether and finish the slide up I'm ready to turn it on so the electronics for this are going tobe dead simple in fact you can do it with no soldering yeah that I said thatno soldering the only things I soldered were the Arduino Nanoand a screw terminal that allows you to plug things easily in without solderinginto the Nano but you can buy both these products pre soldered and I'm going toput a link into video description to all the things you need to do this withoutsoldering so you've got your LED matrix and it's gonna come pre-wired so youdon't have to do any wiring there it's got power and the connection to go toyour Arduino already in it so we're just going to use some metal L braces andwe're going to put those you screw this to the sides of the light on the insideand we're going to then just use some hot glue which I apologize I forgot toget a shot of that but we're going to just use hot glue to attach the LEDmatrix and suspend it behind about a half inch or 3/4 of an inch behind thefront so that you get some nice diffusion then we're just going to takeour screw terminal and we're going to hot glue it to the back inside of thepanel we're going to put our jack in now this is an optional step here because Idid solder this jack but I'm going to give you a link to a description to onethat you don't have to solder so you can get by with that without soldering andthat gives you your power supply so you're going to pull your power supplyin wires from the power are going to run into these flip connectors which againrequire no soldering to connect it to the LED matrix the LED matrix is goingto run out to one of the jst s in your Arduino screw terminal the other jstfrom your LED push button is going to go into your second jst and that's it pretty happy how this one came out Ihope you like it too if you did hit the like button subscribe so you getnotified about future bills and about the contest to win one of these that'sall I got for this time so it's a wrap I'll see you next time.

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