Gooseneck LED Grow Lights for Indoor Hot Pepper Seedlings

Welcome to 7 Pot Club.

I’m Rob.

🎵 I grow hot peppers 🎵 First, I wantto give a shoutout to Anson in Ocala, FL.

I hope you were singing along.

Today, I want to show you my seedling progressand unbox and demonstrate these new bendable three-headed gooseneck LED Grow Lights I recentlypurchased.

Let’s get started.

I planted my hot pepper seeds a little overtwo weeks ago.

I’m happy with the results so far, as there’sa least one seedling popping up in all but a handful of the 144 cells.

After all these years, I still have nightmareswhere none of my seeds sprout and I’m publicly humiliated in my underwear as the world’sworst gardener.

Luckily, that didn’t happen the year! I’ll give these youngsters a few more days, then do a complete survey and see if any varieties need to be replanted.

I’m still watering from the bottom, andusually add a cup or so of water to each tray every day.

I also mist the seedlings a few times a day, because indoor air is very dry in Minnesota during the winter.

As you can see, I’ve removed the clear plasticcovers from the trays.

As the seedlings began to sprout, I removedthe tape that covered the air holes.

Then I started giving them a little more uncoveredtime every day.

At this point, I’m only putting the coverson overnight, but that will stop as soon as the seedlings start pushing against the topof the cover.

I’ll also remove the heating mats soon, as I prepare the seedlings for the cooler temperatures of the basement, where they’llsoon be transplanted into 3.

5” pots.

My nursery is on a table in my office whereI can easily monitor progress.

My lighting needs in this room are temporary.

I used to hang lights over the trays, butit took up a lot of space and they were always getting in the way.

I was browsing Amazon recently and this three-headedgooseneck LED grow light caught my eye.

I don’t remember seeing this type of contraptiona year ago when I was last shopping for lighting.

Now there are dozens to choose from.

I chose this particular model because thethree arms provide pretty good coverage for a standard size tray.

It clips on to the edge of the table, whichis very convenient.

I like the way you can move the arms out ofthe way when you need access to the trays.

Let’s unbox one of these lights and seewhat’s inside.

But first, time to take a break and clearsome snow.

This has been the snowiest February ever recordedhere in Minneapolis.

The last 9” dumping and subsequent removaloperation was yesterday, but plows came through overnight and helpfully blocked our drivewaywith several hundred pounds of rock hard crud.

Luckily, our trusty snow blower was able tobreak right through and make relatively quick work of removing it.

I always enjoy snow boulder toss.

OK, back to unboxing.

The packaging is very generic.

There are only two items inside the box: thelight itself and an instruction sheet.

Remove the multiple layers of protective plasticwrapping and here’s what you’ve got.

This light is advertised as 27W, which I guessis because it has 54 1/2 watt LEDs, 18 in each arm.

But when tested with my Kill-A-Watt, it consumesless than 16 watts of power.

I don’t really have any idea what wattageratings really mean when it comes to LED lights.

I wish I had the right kind of meter to testthe output in lumens, but visually, it seems bright enough to illuminate new seedlingsuntil they’re ready to be transplanted.

The clip is sturdily made of metal with apowerful spring that grips securely.

The three gooseneck arms are also constructedfrom metal and stay wherever you position them.

Let’s check out the functions of the remote.

The power button turns on the light.

The button with plus and minus symbols controlsthe brightness.

It’s not extraordinarily bright even atthe highest setting, so I’m leaving this at full intensity.

The button with the two arrows controls thecolors: blue, red or both.

I want all the colors.

If you only need light from one or two ofthe three arms, the button with the light bulb symbol is the control you’re lookingfor.

Now, let’s talk about the built-in timer.

I was excited about this feature because itmeans you don’t need an external timer.

But it has some limitations.

There are 3 settings: 4 hours on, 20 hoursoff; 8 hours on 16 hours off; and 12 hours on and 12 hours off.

This is from the time you hit the button.

If you want different intervals, you’regoing to have to turn it on and off manually.

You can’t even use an external timer becauseyou can’t turn the light off and on by cycling power.

And it won’t come back on after a powerfailure, as I discovered last week.

Probably not a deal breaker, but somethingyou should know before you buy.

If you’d like to try out one of these clip-onlights, I’ll include Amazon affiliate links in the video description.

Let’s revisit a topic I’ve covered inthe past — removing seed hulls.

Sometimes, the seed hull doesn’t fall offwhen a seedling emerges.

If you don’t remove it, the seedling willdie.

If you don’t remove it carefully, you’lltake off the leaves and it will die anyway.

Here’s how I do it.

Moisten your fingers with saliva.

Clean the dirt off the hull and get it aswet as possible.

Try and tease it off by gently wiping yourfingers across the surface.

Sometimes this works.

If it doesn’t come off, take tweezers andgrasp the very end of the hull so you’re not grabbing the leaves.

Hold the stem with your other hand, then gentlytug with the tweezers.

If you’re lucky, the hull will come rightoff.

This seedling will live! Soon, we’ll start translating these seedlingsinto 3.

5” seeding pots and move them to our basement grow room.

We’re trying some new to us organic nutrientsthis season and we’re anxious to see how they perform.

Of course, we’ll be documenting each stepof the process, so please subscribe to our channel and tap the bell to receive notificationsas we post new episodes.

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For 7 Pot Club, I’m Rob.

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