How to Raise Kitchen Ceiling Height, Install LED Wafer Lights, Drywall

we just peel these off until some of these are newer – these have been replaced in the last few years because normally in condos like this you walk into a kitchen like this these will be all the yellow like dark yellow and nasty sometimes to the point that

the light has no effect so we just kill these are bunches and this is a standard suspended ceiling and luckily if you look over here in the edge here along the wall come around here and take a look you can see they never riveted these cross tees to

the wall bracket there so that's also gonna make our job a lot easier because these are just kind of interlocked they'll come right out and these will have this ceiling down in five ten minutes [Music] everybody Jeff here and welcome back to our channel if this is your

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okay and then if you have any questions and I'll leave them down in the comments and we'll answer them for you so let's get started with today's project well you can see here now that we've exposed the whole ceiling space up here you can see some things that

are going to have to change before we can raise the ceiling up from down here all the way up to one and a half inches away from the corner right up there so see how they ran the phone lines through the hole up there in that wall we

are going to have to somehow move that up higher and then you can see right here that we have a register here in the up here on the wall that's coming out we're probably going to block that off not block it completely we're gonna just make it flush

with the wall and put the register on the front face they're facing downward towards the kitchen here it'll still have the same effect and you'll still have air conditioning coming in the kitchen and then we need to investigate what they did there what's behind all of that duct

tape that you see right there that's the oven that's the 6-3 oven cable coming out of there from the fuse panel here see so it runs from there and it runs all the way along the ceiling and it pops in the other end where they did the same

thing and then I also see a hole in the drywall over there that we're going to after repair so that is just some stupidity and construction like we normally see nothing nothing new there all right so coming back up here to where we originally found this duct tape

here this is a lesson in how not to seal a hole in a wall because the duct tape dries and cracks so you just it just comes off very brittle like so we're gonna go ahead and figure out what these clowns did when they built the place and

we're going to go ahead and patch that up properly and then over here were the AC vents the register was coming out of the wall you can see they got a hole over here that they never plugged and it just wasn't finished right probably up top they are

either so we're going to have to take care of all that too when we raise the ceiling and as I promised it all came down in about five minutes and there it all is on the floor we're going to recycle all of this stuff we'll put this out

on bulk trash day for the guys that come around and get all the metal we try to throw as little into the landfill as possible but you can see we have a little bit of prep ahead of us before we can put our studs up onto the ceiling

there anchor in our two by fours to hold the drywall okay so I wanted to just take a minute here and show you I I came up with this plan here is drawing and it basically shows a bird's eye view if you were looking down from the unit

up above as to what is going to happen on the ceiling here so if you see all of these brown things here these represent wood pieces these are the the furring strips or the strapping the the ceiling strapping that we're going to put down so these are two

by fours that we're going to lay flat up against the ceiling and we're going to drill them into the concrete and this will be the support structure to drill the concrete into another company this will be the support structure to drill the drywall into here so if you

look here like this here is a single 8 by 4 sheet of drywall and we just have to cut it down to 7 feet 10 inches same with this section here and then the last section here we only need about 2 feet wide by 7 inches 7 feet

10 inches right so what you have here is we got really lucky there's not going to be any butt joints it's just three sheets of drywall that we need to buy here right and if you look here you'll see I have some of those straps coming down the

middle here too one here one here ideally when the builders build a ceiling strapping for their drywall ceilings they want to have 16 inches on center that's ideal a lot of times they end up with 24 inch and that's fine too with two constraints number one we have

to make sure that we put glue on every one of these straps here before we attach the drywall and then when we do the drywall we have to make sure we're using 5/8 inch drywall it's a lot stiffer than the half inch I don't recommend ever using half

inch drywall on the ceiling because it bends and ripples too much and also the 5/8 inches better fire-rated for you as well now fire coat isn't so much of an issue for us right now because we have a cement slab up on the ceiling all right but I

still like to go above minimum code whenever I can and we're going to put fire caulking around all of these here and since there's no but joints the taping will go a lot easier here because drywall sheets as you know along the long end have a little valley

cut into them and you can just put the tape right in there in it and it'll go down quicker and easier and it it muds over or easier now here's our disk lights here and I'll show you those in a minute the disk lights are what we have

to use here they actually call them wafer lights they're LED wafer lights and these were fit in the one-and-a-half inch space that's up in there and we'll pre wire the their little cans their their tiny little power supply cans we don't use the big cans anymore for recessed

lighting these disks just clip into the holes that we're going to make in the drywall here and if you notice here I make my spacing three feet from every wall and this is where a lot of people drop the ball in kitchen lighting and that night we just

went through this at my friend's house the electrician came in and put like for example this leg here like just inches away from the front of the cabinet and when you do that it creates too much of a harsh shadow that goes down onto the counter and you'll

end up with darkness underneath your counters so the way you overcome that is you have your lights out three feet from the wall and that creates a nice wide dispersion pattern of lighting so it's very simple there's not a whole lot of rocket science to it but so

many people drop the ball on there's a very important point make sure your lights are at least three feet away from the wall not two feet away from the wall you don't want to be 12 inches away from your cabinet you want to be 24 inches away from

the front of your cabinet here and then this wire right here that we're going to install that today that's the big thick power cord that goes from the fuse panel over to where the stove is okay and so you see we have to leave cutouts here and our

strapping to allow us to run wires here in the earth throughout and that's pretty much all there is to it there's a couple possibilities we have four choices here that we can do the the old cabinet was 30 inches they see how it ends up here at the

30 inch mark and so what we want to do is get something better than that something taller because look how much space would be left in here so most of your standard cabinets now you can get you can get three inch you can get 36 inches and that

would take us up to this line what I need to find out for my custom cabinet builders is do they have a 40 inch cabinet because ideally I would want to to do like a 40 or 42 inch cabinet the problem is is if I want to do

a 42 inch cabbage is not enough space up here because you remember this is what my two by fours are going to take out that space right up top there and the 5/8 drywall is going to go there so I have to end my cabinets right there that

would have to be my my end point so if we can get a 40 inch cabinet we're fine if not we have to back down to 36 inch all right so now we have to tackle the issue of this thing here this was our air conditioning ducting that

had the old register on it which was on the ceiling with this new kitchen remodel what we're gonna do is we're gonna cut it back here remove the whole thing and it'll be flush with the wall and will come up with a new duct system that will allow

the register to end right there on the wall alright so now we've cut around the edge I'm gonna just pull it off the wall there and we'll have to make some adjustment cuts here so you made the cut there now we have separation so now that's what we're

looking at here so we're gonna come up with a way to terminate this better with the ducting here and we'll get a register that will fit on here and now it'll just be a wall register alright so what you've seen us do here is we're putting pilot holes

here on these 2 by 4's before we mount them to the ceiling so these pilot holes are going to be for all of the tap cons and I'll usually put one close to the end and then you'll see I kind of stagger them as I go down this

one will be on the right side and the next one will be down here on the left side of the stud and then we'll this stood up against the ceiling there against that cement slab and we will put a concrete bit in here and we'll just kind of

tap it and make just that make score marks on the ceiling for where we're gonna drill and then we'll go ahead and drill the holes for the tap cons okay and as we enter the kitchen here you can see our ceiling strapping here for the drywall ceilings is

taking shape we have the perimeter up pretty much so you can see all we did was if we took our two-by-four studs and smooth them up to the ceiling thus turning them into drywall strapping and you can see what I we've done here is we kind of stagger

the anchors the tap cons so we just kind of alternative gives it a little bit more stability see how they go here and up there and then back that way then up to this end and then back to that end and that's how we do it all the

way around and we just leave room here and there wherever we need to get a cable across because if we're only going to put our screws maybe six or eight inches apart corner on the perimeter here so we're going to start getting some more of these put up

now to go across they'll be our 24 inch we'll have them every 24 inches and you can see we've already got our lights our pub lights the boxes for them are already attached to the concrete ceiling there and they just water from one to the next and a

daisy chain fashion and we'll unplug these discs once we put the drywall up has the holes in them and once the drywall is up and secured we'll attach these disks right into the hole the holes will be cutout in the drywall big enough to hold these lights and

they'll snap right in now that we have the hole drilled in the concrete it's time to pull out the impact driver and we're going to drive in this tap con here up into the concrete and that's how you do it all the way down all right so you

just saw I like to vacuum out my holes after I drilled them and the reason is is so that there's no concrete powder that's in there that could bind up so when you try to put in your tap cons here so you don't want it getting all bound

up on the threads here and it'll keep your tapcon from going in it'll make it hard to get it in there it's not as important on the ceiling here there's our hole not as important as it is on the walls because on the ceiling most of it does

fall out by gravity but it's always good to clean it out I like to be consistent all right so this is what I call insurance whenever I secure would up to the concrete I always like to run a bead of peel adhesive and I'm just gonna smooth it

up in there this just kind of helps seal it to the ceiling gives it a little bit extra oomph it's the same thing they do with the cabinet's when we secure the cabinets to the wall see so it's just gonna help give you the strength of a thousand

nails I'll do that all the way around wherever you see those cracks are we're gonna go ahead and try to tool some of this adhesive in there you can do it with liquid nails as well here we are the next morning we got all the framing up getting

ready to add the drywall we'll just remove these disk lights before we put the drywall up got the cords all secure it nicely everything's routing along the strapping there along the top all the cords are out of the way so when we put the drywall up here it'll

just be nicely tucked underneath okay so what we're doing is we're applying the adhesive directly to the back of the drywall it's a little easier than trying to apply it up top here to the straps because the tents the one have become stalactites and dripped down so it's

easier for me to just put it right here on the drawing wall and here we've got the 24 inch mark measure and we're going straight down here and that's very simple as all you do because this will be as strong as a thousand nails this will help greatly

hold this drywall onto the ceiling so here's our setup for putting the drywall up on the ceiling we've got one tea set up over here and another one set up over here and the idea is you get the sheet balanced across and fit the way you're going to

put it and then you wedge it up into the corner on both sides here and then we have a third one that we're going to put up in the middle that holds the sheet as close as you can get to the drywall so this one's already done and

we're about to do it on the second sheet [Music] okay and before we take our Artie's down we're gonna show you how they look how they're holding up the drywall in place so that we were able to come in here and put our drywall screws up into the

strapping and you can see they're just wedged against the floor there okay so now we're going to take these down they've served their purpose alright so here we can see we've got the drywall ceiling installed here and you can see how narrow a space you got here so

there's your can for the light there's the electrical wire coming across leading to it and the can is right there and we have our circles drawn on the drywall right there and there's another one they're going to be right over here and so we're just going to drill

these circles out and reach up and then grab the white cable and plug in our disk lights alright so this is the hole saw that we're gonna use I like this this one's make my client tools and what I like about it is it's adjustable here so I

can set these whit's here to whatever diameter of the hole that we're gonna drill so in this case we're going to drill a four and a quarter inch hole and then this is cool – this is like a little bowl that's attached to it and when you drill

up on the ceiling here it's gonna catch all the dust so let's see how it works I'm gonna start right here in the middle [Music] looks like we get ourselves a nice little thing they cut hole and only took a few seconds and no dust because you can

see all the dust is captured right here in the bowl alright so now I'm going to just reach up here and grab my white water miss you can see it's just right here and we're going to take the disk light here and screw it in so we're just

screwing the thing in there now and that means here you flip them back up you've wedged them up in the ceiling there and it just clicks right into place and there you have it a beautiful thin disc light and remember it was all in this little space right

up in here and that folks is how you click a nice little dissolute into a very narrow crawlspace I'm lack of a better word

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