In this video I will be showing you how to create this modern square-shaped ceiling lamp that utilizes nine gu10 LED spots for traditional illumination purposes but additionally features an RGB AWA LED strip Which is used for indirect mood lighting? the color of its can of course get adjusted by regular RF remotes But also through a Wi-Fi control app, which is certainly handy to have so sit back and enjoy the rather Lanfear an exhausting process of Creating this ceiling lamp by me and my assistant in around five days of work Let's get started This video is sponsored by jl CPC be where you can get ten PCBs for the price of only two dollars So feel free to upload yokubou fights today to test out their PCB service Now before I can show you all the super-fun Mechanical and electrical work we had to go through.
I need to firstly present you the blueprint of the ceiling lamp we had in minds basically puts we wanted to create a big cuboid which features nine le d– spots at the bottom and houses along LED strip on the top Sounds easier but the details are where it got complicated To create the depth of the cuboids.
We used stacked up wood laps with dimensions of 24 by 48 millimeters For the bottom part we used Bevo boards Rapids, which is a so-called light bulb platter Meaning it is lights, but can handle quite a bit of force Sadly though.
It only came with dimensions of 1200 by 800 millimeters so we had to get creative to achieve our designated dimension of 1.
2 by 1.
2 meters but more about that later For the upper parts.
We used a 19 millimeter fake piece of MDF Which was quite heavier But necessary because we wanted to house the RGB W LEDs inside this MDF piece flats whippet surface now what I could bore you even more with what lengths all of our screws guards or More detailed information on how we achieve proper load balancing or what kind of components are necessary for the electrical wiring But for now, you should get the basic idea of the lamp.
So let's get started building We started off by opening up our wood laughs pack Onto which we then created precisely measured markings to build – wood squares for that we firstly used the jigsaw to create the eight required wood left pieces and Then formed a square with the first four of them By using those brackets and a 2.
5 millimeter drill we firstly pre-drilled holes and then used wood screws to join all the wood laughs together as Soon as the first square was done.
It was time to repeat the brackets mounting process in order to form the second square Before joining them though.
I added a bigger wood screw for stability through all edge connections Afterwards, we stacked up the two squares and combined them by using 16 longer screws At this point we broaden the first there Hobart Rapids Which as you can imagine we secured to the wood square with tons of screws After marking evenly spaced locations for them Then we positioned the second parts marked where we need to cut it and used a jigsaw for that which worked surprisingly well After a demoting adhesive, we push the boards together and secure the second one with screws as well to properly spaced the LED spots we created a 4×4 checker boards onto the now acquired complete bottom boards and Used a sixty eight millimeter else Kaiser for which I could not find a proper English translation (Hole saw) In order to create the holes for the metal housing of the gu10 LED spots after All nine holes were created we measured outs and cuts tumor would lapse which we positioned inside the square and Secure them to its to improve its stability Once the bevel board Rapids was mounted to those wood pieces as well It was time for the electrical wiring work which requires quite a bit of material The process was simple though.
I firstly pushed the GU 10 socket wires into a small distribution box Edit vago terminals to them pushed NIMH wire into the same box Edit the life and neutral wire to one voter minal each and closed the box up Why this work looks simple? It is important to note though that it should be done by professional electrician.
You have been warned But anyway once all nine boxes were wired up I added 11 holes to a bigger terminal box, which I then mounted to one in a wood.
Laughs After then pushing nine smaller terminal box virus into the bigger one I used Vargo terminals once again and to connect poor neutral and life virus in parallel at the end of this wiring process I removed these sockets of the LED power supply cable Removed the insulation of its virus and added those to the Vaako terminals along with an additional hookup wire which I prepared before hands As soon as all the wiring was completes I closed up the terminal box and finally moved on to the big MDF boards For which I firstly needed another box though Which contained aluminum profiles with a milky white acrylic top for the LED strips? Those featured a height of 8 millimeters and width of 40 millimeters Which were important dimensions for the groove cutter I chose By adding it to a hand router.
I was able to create a very precise indentation Which can take in the aluminum profile and thus create a first surface very neat so I marked a half complete square onto the MDF piece edges to build a hole for the starting point of the router and Then used it to create the four indentation lines which together form the square Next I marked a suitable length for the profiles and cut them with a simple handsaw Afterwards, we utilized mounting adhesive to secure them inside the indentations At this point I unpacked the RGB W LED kits with all of its components Which I got for cheap from eBay After hooking it all up.
I tested whether the remote works which he did and Afterwards tested the Wi-Fi control app which worked beautifully as well so I created a hole next to the start LED strip through which I will later feed the wires and Continued by removing the acrylic glass top Measuring out the LED strips cutting them and securing them inside the profiles with Tisa pecks At the end I had to connect all four individual strips through 0.
75 millimeter wire Otherwise the following LED light-up tests would not have been successful But since one test was not enough I also tested the complete electrical system, which as you can see you work without a problem Before joining the MDF boards to the lamp though We created former wood left pieces, which we once again used to increase the stability of the structure Once that was done I drilled a big hole in the middle of the MDF ports hooked up the LED power supply to the LEDs and Finally positioned the MDF ports on to the lamp Needless to say we pre drilled a ton of holes and used big wood screws to properly secure the MDF ports Before we move the whole lamp over to a higher position Here we created a simple yet complicated mounting mechanic for the lamp which required a lot of measuring Cutting drilling mounting and a lot of other interesting woodworking terms But let me break it down for you on paper.
So you understand how it works We basically secured a piece of woods onto the ceiling which features four pieces of woods Which have a big hole in the center? Through this hole we can push this massive m14 threaded rods Now the lamp cut a fitting wood construction with four pieces of wood as well Which we can use to interlock the lamp with the ceiling structure through the m14 rods easy So as soon as these systems work together, successfully we mounted the ceiling part of its but not the lamp yet Because beforehand we added Barrow board Rapids all around the wood square-headed a bit of putty around the edges Sanded it down and glued in grain wallpaper on the lamp to make it look good Once that was done.
We lifted the lamp up that the mains voltage wiring and secured it to the ceiling After then inserting all the GU 10 LEDs the lamp was finally complete Now I'm very happy with the results and I hope it inspires you to build something similar on your own If you like this video then don't forget to Like share and subscribe Stay creative and I will see you next time.