Next Gen Quantum LED Panels: Cheap, Easy & Super Efficient Boards (Spider Farmer Grow Light Review)

Hi YouTubers! I'm Al Gracian, from Albopepper.

com.

Quantum styled LED panels! These are some of the latest in LED tech offeringnice boosts in efficiency.

They're not bogged down with cooling fansor unneeded light switches.

Some kits are DIY, requiring assembly.

But what if you just want to buy somethingand plug it in? Well, today we're looking at the Spider FarmerSF-1000.

We'll look at some specs, some PPFD readingsand compare them to some older LED systems.

Wanna know how to decode those mystical micromole per joule ratings? I'll also tell you what I didn't like aboutthis seller's product claims.

So let's dig in! Here's everything that comes in the box.

Hanging hardware, including two rope hangers.

A manual and this snazzy card.

There's no significant assembly required.

With the SF-1000 we just attach the hangingcables and we're all set! Now for these diodes.

Some low-end lights might only offer a singlediode color.

But Spider Farmer uses a custom blend, optimizedfor plants.

A nice broad range of colors, rather thana few isolated bands.

Overall, the light looks fairly white.

So it's easy on the eyes.

And it's good for accurately monitoring planthealth.

We have a nice MEAN WELL Driver, securelyfastened to the board.

A simple package, but the components are wellassembled.

No exposed wires.

And the board has a rubbery coating, protectingthe diodes from splashes and such.

I ran this light for 4 hours in a room thatwas 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

The back of the aluminum board reached temperaturesfrom 130 degrees at the corners, to 140 in the center under the driver block.

So this does heat up and you should be carefulwhen handling and positioning the light.

What really counts though is how much lightthis thing throws.

And this light is BRIGHT! Cameras just can't do it justice.

But lumens are for humans, right? So let's take some objective measurements.

My Apogee SQ-520 quantum sensor gives muchmore accurate readings when comparing custom LED spectrums.

I'm taking PPFD spot readings along a 4 inchgrid, inside a reflective wall measuring 28 by 28 inches.

Spider Farmer supplies a PPFD map at 18 inches.

So I'll check that.

Also 24 inches and 12 inches.

Right away I noticed some strong consistentnumbers at 24 inches.

With an average PPFD of 375, running thislight at a cycle of 18 hours on and 6 off would produce a DLI of 24.

3.

And that's actually quite respectable! I’m phasing out this old LED, so I’lltake some readings for comparison.

They’re both pulling about 100 watts atthe wall.

But this UFO is older tech.

It has to divert power to a cooling fan andin general the LEDs just aren't as efficient.

At all of these distances, I see much strongernumbers from the Spider Farmer LED.

Efficacy.

A crucial spec when comparing two grow lights.

How efficiently does a light convert electricityto plant-usable photons? Are you familiar with "lumens per watt"? Well, in horticulture we can compare the micromoles per joule.

One joule per second is a watt.

So this "j" deals with the electricity used.

And this unit? This is the PPF, the amount of PAR photonsbeing emitted, as measured in micro moles.

The higher the number, the more photons yourlight pumps out per watt of power consumed.

Higher is better! The SAMSUNG Diodes enable this light to boastan efficacy of 2.

7 micromoles per joule.

For an entry-level, consumer-grade grow light, that's really good! A couple years ago LED manufacturers wereexcited to offer 2.

0 or 2.

2 ratings.

And even right now, some older LEDs mightstill be 1.

8 or less.

Does that mean this 100 watt LED could replacea less efficient 1000 watt model??? Well, that's what the seller had said in theirAmazon listing.

And I'm gonna say ABSOLUTELY NOT! That’s an overinflated claim and here'swhy.

To achieve the same PPF output as a 1000 wattmodel, you need to replace an LED that only yields 0.

27 micromoles per joule! Look at these rather dated specs showing somereference numbers from a few year back.

Even then, LEDs were anywhere from 0.

89 to1.

7 micromoles per joule.

So what's a realistic example justifying anupgrade? Let's say that you have an older LED, ratedat 1.

8 micromoles per joule.

It's 150 watts.

Multiply them for a total output of 270 PPF.

This SF-1000 draws 100 watts at 2.

7, so ittoo would output 270 PPF.

Thus, this newer Spider Farmer should be ableto replace a 150 watt LED or maybe a little higher, perhaps 250 watts.

But not as high as a TRUE 1000 watts.

To test this estimation, I dug out a thirdlight.

This 200 watt LED from the 2016 era.

And surprisingly, the Spider Farmer 100 wattLED had HIGHER numbers than the 200 watt model! It was close, but the Spider Farmer pulledout ahead.

So yes, I would say you could replace a 250watt model if it’s from 2016 or older.

The problem is, many LED sellers give inaccuratewattage specs! They might call their light 1000w and thensay that it only draws 200 or something much lower.

These are false wattage specs.

After posting my Amazon review, the selleremailed me.

Their product listing was referring to competitorslike that: Sellers who trick consumers by calling their light 1000 watt even thoughit isn’t.

I agree, the Spider Farmer LED could easilyreplace many of those models.

Just look at the actual wattage consumed andignore those fake wattages.

Spider Farmer has now tweaked their listingto make sure consumers aren’t deceived.

(It’s nice to see an LED seller who hassome integrity.

) So what specs should we look for in a listing? A good seller will list their micromole perjoule rating.

Without that, it's hard to compare LEDs evenwhen you get true wattage specs.

Going further, look for PPFD or light intensitymaps.

They should show more than just a center reading.

Ideally, we would also see values at a fewdistances.

At a minimum, we should see spectral graphs, efficacy ratings, and we absolutely need accurate wattage specs! No more of those made up, overinflated wattages! So what are my final thoughts about the SpiderFarmer SF-1000? I think it will be an excellent upgrade thatwill fit perfectly in my small growing space.

It's a great option for lettuce and for nicelysized seedlings over a 3 foot by 3 foot area.

If you're growing high end fruiting or bloomingplants like mari- TOMATOES, it could get you by with some entry level performance in a2 foot by 2 foot area.

But their listing also shows a two panel andeven FOUR panel version which would really get the job done for larger, high-end applications! Be sure to watch my other video which goesinto depth on the SF-2000.

Recently, I was offered TWO one thousand dollarbrand name quantum style panels in exchange for a video review.

When I compared my Spider Farmer LEDs I foundthem to be a MUCH better value.

Two SF-2000s draw nearly the same combinedwattage as the competitor, but the price was dramatically lower! Free light or not, I'm not interested.

I'm gonna stick with my Spider Farmer LEDs.

The Spider Farmer brand seems to be new.

So there might be concerns about support issues.

But they offer several forms of contact info.

With a 3 year warranty, they seem willingto stand behind their product.

Hopefully, this light will last a long timeand I won't ever need to get in touch with them for ANY issues! I’d like to thank Spider Farmer for contactingme.

This is an UNPAID review.

But I did get the light at a reduced cost.

And I'm glad to say, thus far, I'm not disappointed! Check the description for a link to theirproduct on Amazon if this seems like a good choice for you.

Oh, and if you're a seller trying to temptme with one thousand dollar grow lights in exchange for a review, please email your requeststo idontwantyouroverpricedleds@albopepper.

com.

Thanks for taking time to watch.

I hope this info has helped you out.

Please subscribe if you haven't already.

And as always, Happy Gardening!.

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