Hey guys Andrew Esquivel here back with anotherreview and today I'm finally going to get to review the SNGL Advanced LED HeadlightConversion Kit to convert your halogen headlights into LEDs.
Now, I say finally get to because this setis very cost prohibitive compared to all the other sets I've ever tested.
This kit alone will run you about a $180 onAmazon here in the United States.
That's the most expensive kit that I can findthat's reasonable but there's a lot of good reasons as to why this is priced so high.
That being said let's do a full-blown reviewbecause there is a lot to go over with this particular kit.
As always we're going to start off with thetechnical details.
Once again we are working with the infamous9007 series socket headlight which is known to have compatibility issues with aftermarketproducts.
That's why so many LED products that I'vetried simply have not worked very well at all.
Total and this is a combined total betweenthe two sets of- the two LEDs that come in this set at high beam, they output 12, 400lumens.
They both consume together a combined 110watts, the color temperature is 6, 000 kelvin.
It has a two-year warranty and a life expectancyof 50, 000 hours.
Now, there's a few things about this bulbthat are different from a bunch of the other LEDs that I have tried.
First off, the actual diodes themselves.
These diodes are actually special.
They are some of the latest and greatest LEDdiode technology on the market for LED headlight conversion kits.
They are the Lumiled LM 27 LEDs which is partlywhy this kit is so expensive.
Lumiled LM 27s, they're really good diodesand you'll see that when we test drive the car when this is installed.
They output a lot of light.
They're pretty efficient and more importantly, the diode is made to a very high specification and they're cherry picked to ensure that theyare consistently really good diodes.
They're not just random diodes slapped together.
That's the nice thing about the Lumiled LM27s.
Now, the thing about this kit is it is extremelyadjustable.
In fact, this is the first LED headlight conversionkit that openly states in the description on Amazon that it will work in projector housingsand- get this, reflector housing.
That's what got me excited.
An LED conversion kit generally is not designedto work in a reflector housing.
They claim to have tested this in 100's ofreflector housings to ensure that it will work properly.
I've already tested it in my reflector housingand when we get to that part you'll see as good as it's going to get in my vehicle butthat's what got me excited.
One quick note though, when you do adjustthese, it's going to take a lot of time to get them perfect.
Because first off you have to understand thatthe low beams on this particular device- only one side light up.
What I mean by that is it's either the topor the bottom only that lights up so make sure you orient them as they should be thatworks best in your housing.
On high beams, the bottom set two diodes andthe top set two diodes work so low beam is just one like the bottom set of diodes.
The second thing about these are, if you goback a few videos of mine where I tested a few adjustable LEDs.
you're able to adjustthem in a quarter ways turn in your housing to try and find a sweet spot.
The problem with that is they didn't thinkabout in and out.
This is very important because I have herewhat I use on a daily basis.
This is my Sylvania Silverstar.
This is a very affordable slightly upgradedhalogen headlight and you'll notice how it's designed.
Now, this also has the high and low beamsbuilt into it.
It's a 9007 socket light but there is a verygood reason why this is designed the way it is.
The filaments in this bulb are specificallya very exact distance away from the base right here where they gasket is because this isdesigned to sit in a very specific manner inside the housing.
That's been predetermined by the manufacturersand by the specifications of what a 9007 series headlight is supposed to be.
More or less the standard for 9007 was created, then the halogen headlights for 9007 were made based on those specifications and thencar manufacturers built the reflector housings around how the halogen headlight sits insidebased on the 9007 specifications.
The problem with LEDs is they have to somehowmimic very well how a halogen was designed, especially considering it's going in a housingthat was designed for halogens, not LEDs.
LEDs, the way they output light is completelydifferent.
LEDs tend to be highly directionalized andbecause of that there tends to be a lot of issues with beam scatter, patchy spots, lowusable distance, and bad throw distance, just a lot of different problems but that's goingto be part of the next part of this review.
Before I put this in the car, I do want toshow you how everything comes together.
It comes in a nice box.
Now, first off as I was saying before youcan adjust these in quarter turns.
There is a small- very small screw that–this set comes with an Allen wrench in here and you only tighten this screw once you havedetermined the exact position that this needs to be in, in your car.
You'll notice these little grooves every fourthturn and this little screw sits inside the groove.
It's loose enough right now that it can swingaround freely but tight enough that it does have an audible click if you're really payingattention for it and you can feel it when it goes into the quarter turn.
Which is really important but that's not theonly way this adjusts.
If you'll notice and if I spin this consistentlythere are threads and this is a very very fine thread.
Make sure you're careful not to strip it.
These fine threads allow you to adjust withinmillimeters of an exact position when it's in your car.
Now, this is very important because like Isaid, there's a very specific reason why the filaments in this halogen bulb are the distancethat they are from the base of this particular light– distance and let's say from the gasketfor instance because that's how the 9007 specification was created.
The goal is to adjust this LED– pardon mypauses here.
The goal is to adjust this LED as close tothe positions that these filaments would be from the gasket.
If I were to take this halogen- careful notto touch it or be too rough with it and I were to line up these two gaskets.
My goal would be to try and make those LEDsas close to vertically speaking.
In other words, distance this way.
Try to match them up from the gasket movingup, match the LEDs and try and get the filaments matched up with the die yards as close asyou can by adjusting this gasket up and down.
Now, it is a very arduous task to do this.
To top it all off it's currently raining sofor me adjusting this was not fun, doing it in the rain.
That being said I still went and adjustedit and I know at what position it needs to be at.
For me and this is how I adjusted it.
My set needs to be pretty deep.
I start at all the way to the bottom and onto the last click and you'll know it's AR and you'll see its perpendicular or when you'reor however you want to say it with the diodes.
For me, it was two 360 degree rotations.
That's one and that's two.
That was the distance that was best for me.
Now, in my situation– I'm not going to showyou me adjusting it come all the way in the housing but for me, the best way was to putit in like this and then angle it slightly.
On this case, it'll be on the socket already.
Angle it slightly so that it's on a 45-degreeangle in between two of these little notches, which is unfortunate because my housing isa bit different than the housing that SNGL was talking about.
Now, they go into detail in the instructions, how to place the LEDs inside of whatever type of lighting unit you have, whether it's forreflector or projector.
Now, here's the problem, they are using totest and to demonstrate reflector housings that are circular.
My reflector housing has a somewhat proprietarydesign which is definitely not circular.
It has many different angles and polygonsto it, which makes adjusting this beam a lot more difficult because with a circular designlike this you only need four points of adjustment each quarter turn being a full set of adjustment.
In my case, I really need eight-quarter turnsin order to get adjust right in my housing and I'll show you in a minute.
When it comes to reflector type housings theywant you to try and get, let's see.
There's different types of reflector housings.
Well, the point is, they go over which onesthey want you to go for, what positions because they claim they've done the research for you.
Here we go, in my case a multi-reflector type.
They want the diodes going up and down directly.
That did not work for me.
I had to tilt the top LED so that the highbeam LED on top was facing inward towards the engine.
I needed an eight turn instead of a full quarterturn.
I'll show you what that looks like becauseit's about time to put this lights in.
The last thing I just want to go over reallyquick is and this should be obvious 9007 series lights require that you use the circular retainerlock.
That way the bulb stays in place but someLEDs you can get away with a socket or I'm sorry, the gasket holding, the holding intoa socket but with these LEDs they're heavy.
They've got a nice specialized core to transferheats and because of that, they're quite heavy.
The core transfers heat to the fans.
The fans are very quiet and I got to say juston a side note.
These are by far the best and most well-machinedLEDs I have ever had the pleasure to work with.
For whatever that's worth this whole thingis not plastic, this is like anodized metal or a special coated metal.
The connection here is not loose wires, it'sa solid fit designed specifically for it.
This connection here has a gasket to ensurethere's no leaks in between here.
The machining on the metal for this LED hasbeen done flawlessly and the diodes are some of the latest technology diodes.
You saw how the circular retainer lock goesin place, have it screwed on.
Yes, you just put the circular chain lockon first and you'll notice that this is keyed in a way and because of that little screwyou won't be able to have full reign over how you adjust it but once these are screwedin you don't need to worry about this.
You can just turn the LED as you need.
Let's go ahead and put it in the car finally.
First things first we got to get this insideof the vehicle.
For reference sake at the very top of thisLED, there is a side with a screw and a side without a screw in it.
The side without the screw obviously in itis the side that is the high beams.
When you turn the high beams the top oneswill come on.
You want the one with the screw facing downwardsso that being said we correctly orient that and then we have to fit the gasket on thecircular retainer lock.
Then right here is where everything gets pluggedin.
However, ones it's in, it should be a relativelysnug fit.
You notice it's a little wiggly that's becausewe haven't tightened down that adjustable portion that goes in and out with the Allenwrench yet.
You'll notice that even though it's stillnot all in all the way, you are able to turn the LED in order to adjust it properly andfrom there you'll be able to go to the reflector housing and adjust in quarter turns the diodefor positioning.
Like I was saying about my car is you'll noticethe geometry is very different than the circular reflector housings that they were showingin the instructions.
We have a flat plane, we have different anglesof intensity with the beam.
Everything is very weird going on this reflectorhousing making finding an LED kit that works with this car uber ridiculous but I'm goingto try my best.
All we have left to do at this point is findthe factory wiring harness and just plug the two things together, make sure they're niceand connected and there you go.
Now, don't zip tie the controller here untilyou have everything adjusted the exact way you want it and you've tightened down withthe Allen wrench the screws and everything because this is the easy part.
The nice thing about these LEDs is they'resuper adjustable to your reflector or projector housing.
The bad thing about it is they're super adjustablefor your reflector and projector housing meaning there's a lot of work and a lot of trial anderror.
I've already done the work on my car in termsof figuring out how far in or out the bolt needs to be in what position the diodes needto be facing.
First of is the door test.
This basically just allows us to see the initialpattern and general diffusion in a straight forward distance.
This is the low beams as far as light goes.
It's not really patchy.
It is slightly diffused.
There's no scatteredness to it so long asyou have adjusted your beams properly inside of the housing.
If we go to the high beams it's a lot moreintense and it is going in a particular direction which is forward which is what we want.
Once again the beams actually improve in termsof their diffusion on high beam.
I would say that the door test as far as thisgoes so far results are pretty promising but the door test is just the door test.
Let's see how it looks like on the road.
We are on the same stretch of road that Itest every single set of LED headlight conversion kits that I get my hands on.
Right now we are just sitting down a stretchof road that goes along for quite a ways away with a little bit of light coming from thestreet lights.
Not much though.
This is what it looks like on low beam andthis is what it looks like on high beam.
You'll notice that I'm using a different camerathan I did for a number of my other tests from a long time ago.
This camera picks up light a little differentlyso you have to bear with me.
Of course, I'll be narrating through everything.
For a two sided LED, it has really good diffusion.
It's almost as good if not as good as four-sidedcorn cob LEDs.
That's saying something because two-sidedLEDs generally just do not produce a flat diffused pattern of light.
That being said, this is the low beam andthe lights do not go very far.
This is the high beam.
It makes things a little brighter but it doesnot really increase throw distance.
Before you go crying, “Well, Andrew you should'veadjusted it more.
” Trust me, I've been adjusting it for the pastfew hours.
This is actually the first set I've felt goodenough taking on the highway and really trying them out there.
I've taken them to roads I've never been on.
I've taken them around the city and I've takenthem down to the stretch of road that I'm going to show you that I take all of my LEDsdown.
For whatever reason, no matter how much Iadjust them, no matter how much I toy with them and try to figure things out they justdon't really produce all that much light which is a bit unfortunate.
That being said that certainly is not theend of the test.
Let's go for a drive.
Starting out in low beam.
Let's see what the camera can pick up.
Now, the nice thing about this camera is it'sreally only picking up what the LEDs are throwing down.
Not much more than that.
It is a dark area.
It is almost midnight.
Could try to get it as dark as possible whenI do these tests.
For this test as we go down I'm going to turnon the high beams.
We are driving towards a part of the neighborhoodthat has the least amounts of assisted lighting.
Meaning there's no street lights and peoplegenerally don't keep their lights on their house on at this time of the night in thisarea.
We'll be able to see what these lights canactually do on their own.
We are almost there.
I will be sure to take pictures in night mode.
It will be in the description so you guyscan see even more clearly than in video what to expect out of these lights.
You have a train coming in the other direction.
Now, unfortunately for this part of the videothere really is so little light that my camera can't pick up much in video mode.
I will provide pictures.
If you're on Amazon you should see some picturesin the section of my review somewhere or in the customer image section of the web page.
If you're on YouTube you should be able tofind links to the pictures in the description.
If you're viewing on Amazon just know thatthere is a 4K resolution video of this review if you want to see everything in more detail.
Down here in this darkness I really do needto keep the high beams on because you can't really see all that much.
Going down to low beams just doesn't cut itfor an area this dark.
You can continue to adjust them.
You can continue to fiddle with them and seeif you get better results here and there but it's just one of those situations where nomatter how much you try it just doesn't seem to work.
We are going to go down the road that I willgo back and forth between high and low beam on and [laughs] we'll see.
For a set of LEDs that boast some of the bestdiodes on the market and a very high lumen output, it's very disappointing to see justhow little light these truly put on the road.
I'm going to turn down this street right here.
Now, I'm going to go back and forth betweeneverything here.
This is low beam.
This is high beam.
This is low beam.
This is high beam.
This is low beam.
This is high beam.
This is low beam.
This is high beam.
I bet you're wondering, “Andrew, what if youwere to go against the recommendation of the instructions and place them vertically insteadof horizontally in your housing.
” Well, my good friend, I have already thoughtof that and I've already tried that.
What I get with that combination of settingsis a bunch of light that gets shot to the left and right but nowhere downstream whichis unfortunate.
Now, like I was saying before I have takenthese lights on the highway and unfortunately they suffer from what I would imagine to bereally bad glare.
The reason I say that is I was sitting.
I'm sorry, I was driving down the highwayand I was looking to the left and right and all the signs in the highway are reflectiveto a certain point so you can read them easier at night.
Now I was a fair bit of a distance away andthe– even when I got really really close the sign was reflecting a lot of light.
By the time the car was just about to passthe sign it was still reflecting light which means even though to the naked eye you don'tsee a lot of light coming out from the left and right there is a ton of it that you'renot seeing which means with this set being a two-sided set that's one of the downsides, is there's not a lot of adjustments in a reflector like mine when it comes to left and right.
You have to choose between vertical or horizontaland sometimes you have to find something in between and even then the way the diodes lightup.
It's one side the lights up and then the otherside lights up as well on high beam.
Both sides I have on high beam, one side lightsup on low beam.
Sometimes I wonder if they had it so thatone diode on each side was lighting up during low beam and then two diodes on both sideslit up during high beam.
If that would make a difference– it's oneof design ideas like that or– A lot of two-sided LEDs have reflector unitsbuilt into it for the high beams.
It's a kind of mimic further what certainhalogens do and there's so many ways to go about it.
Two-sided designs never seem to really workin reflector housings.
Because of that you get a lot of left andright.
You get a wider field of view, a larger beamor a larger arc beam.
A larger arc of light, I should say, thatgoes outwards that you're not seeing.
Which means everyone coming towards you isbeing blinded.
That's a problem.
You're going to get a lot of people flashingtheir lights at you.
I really did want this set of lights to workbecause this seemed like the most promising set that you could buy.
The reality of the situation is this.
It still doesn't work.
Not in my reflector housing.
The thing is though there's so many pointsof adjustment that if you were to use this in a type of reflector housing that is exactlylike the one in the instruction book with words, it's just a straight up spherical design.
Maybe it might work.
If you have a projector housing I'm assumingthat it should work for you given all the adjustable things about this set.
If you're on a reflector housing, man, there'sso many different types of reflector housings.
The thing is they say that they've testedit in hundreds of different housings to ensure that it will work.
The problem is they don't list which housingsthey've actually tried it in.
You never get to see the design of the housingsthat it was tried in.
If you can't see the designs of the housingthat they've tried it in then you can't determine that maybe it won't work for you like it'snot working for me.
The wide output is poor, the throw distanceis bad, the diffusion is really good.
The design is getting so close to being whatit needs to be but it's just not there and it just doesn't justify the price in my book.