– Soon after we moved to Denver, I upgraded the lighting in the shop and I thought it would be a good time to teach you a little bit about lighting and a little bit about the LED technology that I was going to install.
I made that video, I putit on our second channel.
You know, the one that nobodyknows about or watches.
So I decided to bringthat video over here.
Again, it's two years old, you'll see the shop spacedoesn't look quite the same as it does now, but I thinkthe information is good and I think you're gonna enjoy it.
Let's get to it.
So today I wanna talk about shop lighting and before I show youwhat I installed here, in the new shop, let's takea trip down memory lane to a simpler time, 2012, when I built the dream shop.
I did my research on lighting at the time and it seemed pretty clear tome that T8 fluorescent bulbs were the way to go.
They had phased out the T12.
T8s were smaller, brighter, more efficient and it just seemed likea logical solution.
Now LED was around at the time, but the problem was itwas cost-prohibitive and there really wasn't a lot in the way of options for that, so T8 was really the only way to go.
Since then, about five years later, we now have tons of LED choices.
The market has taken off, there's a lot of options and the cost had really come down.
Now, here in the shop here in Denver, we actually are workingwith America Green Lights to outfit all of the LEDs in the shop and it is nice and bright and beautiful and looks good on video.
And I have two differenttypes of fixtures, and I'll show those to you later, but for now, I wanna talk a little bit about some terminology.
Because in order to bean informed shopper, you need to know some basic terms.
And I'll tell ya, this lighting stuff, you could really geek out on it and it is certainly a sciencethat you need to master if you're gonna get into the business.
But if you're just buying shop lights, you just need to know a few terms to understand what you're buying.
So the type of light we'retalking about today is LED.
That stands for Light Emitting Diode.
Now, we're not gonna getinto the science behind it, but just understand that it is brighter, it's more efficient soit costs less to run and it produces less heat.
Now, when you look at lights, you're gonna see a bunchof different numbers on the packaging and the next three terms deal with what thosenumbers actually mean.
One important one is lumens.
Lumens is total light output, and that's just how they measure it.
So if you have a lot of lumens, it's gonna be really, really bright and if the number is low, it's not gonna be as bright.
You'll also see references inliterature to foot candles.
We're not gonna really get into that, it's related to lumens, but most commercial productsI've seen reference lumens and that's where we're gonnakeep out discussion today.
The next number you might see is CRI, that stands for Color Rendering Index.
Now, when it come to artificial light, some are better at showing you what the colors actually looklike than others, all right? What we're comparing this to is daylight.
Natural sunlight is a 100 on the index.
Basically, it is showing you vivid colors and you can see the colorsaccurately for what they are.
With artificial light, some of them are very good, so if the number is low, it means that you're not reallygonna see red as true red or blue as true blue.
But if it's a high CRI, in the90s, maybe, you know 90-95, that actually means the colorsare gonna be bright and vivid and very close to what naturaldaylight would produce.
Next up is color temperature.
You'll see this as anumber with a K at the end that stands for Kelvin, that's just the scalethat it's measured in.
If you go 5, 000 Kelvin or higher, you tend to get into yourblues and your whites.
It looks like a cooler color.
If you go below 5, 000 totwo, 3, 000s, that's warmer and you're gonna seemore yellows and reds.
Now, this matters becausethe way the light reflects onto surfaces and things in the shop, it can actually giveyou an unrealistic view of what the color ofthat thing actually is.
Now, as someone who does video, this is extremely important to me.
It may not be as important to you but you still want a color that kind of makes sense for the space.
And when it come to these colors, I think it's interestingif you look inside a house, most people can't exactly tell you what the right color is for temperature, but they will tell you thewrong color temperature.
So if you go into a living room space and someone has daylight-spectrum6, 000 K bulbs in there, it's not comfortable.
It's weird, it would feelodd to sit in a living room that's brightly light with 6, 000 K.
But if you go into alaundry room, let's say, or a work area and it's litwith 3, 000 K lightbulbs, a very warm light, it'sgonna feel weird in there.
It's gonna look dim, it's not gonna be a bright, active space, right? So for a workshop, in my opinion, I think 5, 000 K is a pretty good number.
Now, Jim over at American Green Lights did an amazing job sort oflooking at my shop space and helping me determinewhat the best layout is and what kind of lights I would need to properly light this space not just for woodworkingbut for video work.
So let me show you the details.
Jim requested two things from me: my shop dimensions as wellas my proposed tool layout.
It's a little early to fullycommit to tool locations, but I figured, hey, let's run with it.
Jim recreated my layout using his software and placed a series of24-watt and 60-watt fixtures throughout the shop with light being focused overeach major tool or work area.
He then generated a heat map showing the areas where thelight would be brightest.
As you can see, the tool areasare yellow, orange and red, meaning it will be brightly lit.
The areas between the toolsare a lot less important.
But since most of the shop is green, that means there'll bea fair amount of light consistently cast around theshop to help limit shadows, which really helps with my video work.
Now, let's look at the lights themselves.
Now, here is a 24-watt fixture and we kinda saved this to last 'cause it's got a nice dentin there, unfortunately.
But you can see I've gota nice strip of LEDs here and the driver is encased init`s own little compartment and, of course, the LEDsmount on top like this.
So all you need to do is connect this tostandard 120-volt power, you've got your hot, yourneutral and your ground.
And this guy produces about 2, 500 lumens and the color rendering index is 92 to 95, so really good quality.
The 60-watt fixture's a little bit larger.
We've got five LED strips here, two drivers in the case andthis guy puts out 6, 000 lumens.
Now, keep in mind that myshop is half woodworking shop but also half video studio, so the things I'm concerned about and the amount of attentionI've paid to lighting might be a little bit morethan you're prepared to do.
But, at least if youknow some of these terms when you go and shop for lights, you could be more informed and make sure you'regetting a quality product.
Because guess what.
There's a lot of stuffcoming in from over seas and it's very hard to verifythe quality of those things.
So at least knowing the terminology, you can make an informed buying decision.
Of course, check outAmerican Green Lights.
They make a fantastic productand in addition to this video, we actually have a little articlethat my buddy Vic wrote up telling you a little bit about the different types of LEDlights that are out there with some recommendations as well that you might wannaincorporate into your shop.
Because sometimes brand new LEDs are not necessarily the way to go.
There are retrofit kits andreplacements for T8 bulbs that are LED, which ispretty cool, all right? So be sure to checkthat out on the website.
All right, thanks for watching everybody.