Welcome to 7 Pot Club.
Today I’m going to review the entire lineof SANSI grow lights.
I wanted to have a little fun with this episode, and I hope you enjoy.
🎵 I grow hot peppers 🎵 The best light for growing plants is of coursethe sun.
So when you’re growing plants indoors, youwant the next best thing — an artificial light source that mimics sunlight well enoughto grow healthy, happy plants.
With their energy efficiency, plus their abilityto produce light of almost any color, LEDs have quickly become the technology of choicefor grow lights.
I mostly use lights to grow seedlings forplanting outdoors in spring.
Others use lights to grow plants indoors yearround.
So which LED grow light is right for you? I hope to steer you in the right direction.
In this special episode, I’m going to coverpower consumption, light output and coverage area for 7 different SANSI lights.
I’m here in our basement grow room.
There are over 300 hot pepper seedlings downhere, representing over 100 varieties.
SANSI grow lights are the exclusive lightsource for all these plants.
Why SANSI? A company representative invited me to reviewtheir 70W grow light several months back, and I really liked its price/performance ratio, the natural color of its light, and its silent operation.
This was in stark contrast to my older growlights.
Most of them cast an unnatural purple grow, they all had noisy fans, and used way too much electricity.
I reached out to SANSI, and they generouslyagreed to supply all the lighting for this year’s hot pepper seedlings.
In exchange, I agreed to provide an honestreview of their complete line of grow lights.
You know, I’m not just growing down here in thebasement.
There are pepper plants under SANSI lightson 3 levels of the 4 levels of our home.
Let’s take a look.
Here in my home office, where there are verycramped quarters.
I’ve managed to find enough room for a smalltable that can accommodate 3 trays.
I’m lighting this area with two SANSI 70Wlights, hung from microphone stands.
I don’t mind working all day in the sameroom with these lights.
Although they’re pretty bright, the naturaldaylight color makes them easy on the eyes.
And experts say that bright daylight spectrumlighting can lessen the effects of the seasonal affective disorder many of us Minnesotansexperience during the winter months.
And now here’s the attic, AKA the pepper plantpenthouse.
It’s nice and cozy up here.
There are two 2×4’ tables with 4 trays each.
Each pair of trays is lighted by a SANSI 60Wlight.
This is SANSI’s largest light that screwsinto a standard lamp socket.
I came up with a unique solution to wire andhang the lights up here, and I’ll explain it in more detail later in this report.
I know you’re anxious for me to get to thedetails, so let’s get started.
Here are the seven SANSI lights I’m reviewingtoday.
Four of the lights screw into a standard lightbulbsocket.
The two on the right have their own powersupply and cord, and are designed for hanging or mounting.
The light on the far right is not even reallya grow light, but more on that in a moment.
They all run nice and cool.
thanks to their patented ceramic LED technology.
I really don’t want to get too far intothe technical side of things, but I’ll include a link in the description if you want to learnmore.
None of these lights are designed for large-scalecommercial indoor farming.
SANSI makes lighting for that, but the lightsI’m reviewing today are for non-professionals that want inexpensive plant lighting that’sefficient and silent, casting full-spectrum plant-friendly light that is pleasant ratherthan creepy.
Today, I’m going to perform some informal, but I hope informative tests to reveal how these lights compare.
I’ll plug each light into this Kill A Watttester, to determine how much power it consumes.
The SANSI lights I’m reviewing today arerated from 10W to 100W.
We’ll find out how the wattage ratings matchup to the actual amount of electricity each light consumes.
Don’t be confused by wattage.
When you’re shopping for LED grow lights, you’ll see lights advertised as 600W, 1000W or even 2000W.
But, if you look at the detailed specs, you’llsee that all of them actually consume a fraction of that.
Watts measure power consumption, not brightness.
If you want to save money and conserve energy, your goal should be to use the least amount of power that will grow your plants effectively.
You can’t determine this from a wattagerating.
That’s why I’ll use this inexpensive digitallight meter to measure brightness and coverage area.
The most accurate tool to measure light outputfrom grow lights is a piece of equipment called a quantum flux PAR meter, which tests theentire plant growing light spectrum from UV to infrared.
This cheap meter tests a wide but more limitedrange, and is really designed for testing environmental lighting levels within homesand businesses.
Unfortunately, accurate and sensitive PARmeters are way out of my price range.
This $20 meter will still measure the outputof the lights relative to each other, which is what I want to determine today.
Let’s talk for a minute about how lightis measured.
Lumens are a measurement of visible lightoutput.
When you see a lumen rating for a grow light, or any type of light, that means the total light output in all directions, whether ornot it’s actually in close proximity to or focused on your plants.
That’s where foot-candles and lux come in.
They both measure the same thing— how much light is falling on a surface.
Lux is the metric version.
One foot-candle is defined as one lumen persquare foot, and lux as one lumen per square meter.
Readings in Lux are about 10 times great thanfoot-candles, because one square meter is roughly 10 times larger than a square foot.
I’m going to measure in foot-candles today, as one does here in the land of inches, gallons and pounds.
I’ll take measurements from a height of15” directly below the light.
Then I’ll measure at the edges of 1’x1’, 2’x2’ and 2’x3’ rectangles surrounding the light.
This should reveal of how much area each lightcan effectively cover.
This sequence will give you an idea of howthe coverage area increases when transitioning from the 10W to the 100W light.
Now, time to take a closer look at each model.
Let’s start small and work our way up.
The 10W light has 20 LEDs and a standard lightbulb base.
If you don’t have a light fixture for it, you can find lamp cords with switches on Amazon or your local hardware store.
The 15W is, as you would expect, slightlylarger than the 10W.
The plastic front cap of this light gets veryhot to the touch while operating.
Not more than a conventional incandescentbulb, and I don’t think it’s a problem, but it kind of surprised me because SANSIlights run very cool, and the backside of the bulb remains cool to the touch.
I’m going to compare all the lights in pairs.
The power consumption for each is true toits rating.
Brightness directly below is good, and acceptableat 1’x1’.
It drops off quite a bit at 2’x2’, withthe 10W almost unmeasurable at that distance.
These lights would be great for a houseplantor a small tray of seedlings.
Now the 24W and 36W models.
Like their larger siblings, these lights areconstructed with clusters of LEDs behind lenses.
The main difference between them is that the24W has 5 banks of lights, and the 36W has 7.
These are much brighter than the smaller bulbs.
The 36W is especially bright directly below, because it has a center bank of lights.
Light output is still strong at 2’x2’, and almost acceptable at 2’x3’.
I think either of these could effectivelylight 2 standard 10×20 seedling trays.
Next, here’s the 60W.
This one has an odd form factor — 4 banksof lights on hinges that fold out from the center.
This unit is quite large for a screw-in iight, but that’s probably because the design comes from SANSI’s line of garage ceiling lights.
They do this a lot — taking a proven designand tweaking the color temperature to optimize it for plant growth.
I made these work in the attic by using a4-socket lamp cord and attaching it with zip ties to a lighting backdrop stand I’m notcurrently using for its intended purpose.
Each of my lighting setups uses a Z-wave smartswitch to turn the lights on for 16 hours a day.
Here’s the light that got me hooked on SANSI— the 70W.
Unlike the others I’ve shown you so far, this unit has a built in power cord.
This makes it much easier to hang anywhereyou need it, facilitated by the included hanging mechanism with a couple of ways to adjustthe height.
It’s also waterproof, because Its designis derived from an outdoor flood light.
The same design is also used for a blacklightparty light, and even a multicolor light with wireless remote.
But I don’t think either of those would be veryeffective for growing plants.
Now for the comparison.
The 70W is much brighter in the center, becausethe 60W only has lights on its arms.
And because the arms extend out in four directions, the 60W has better coverage.
But overall, the light output is pretty similar.
What’s interesting is that the 70W usesa lot less electricity than the 60W.
Must have something to do with its built-inpower supply.
Finally, here’s the 100W.
As I hinted at earlier, this is not a growlight.
It’s actually an outdoor flood light I’musing indoors and off-label.
It’s designed to be bolted onto a surface, but can easily be hung using a rope clip hanger.
This model has 18 light clusters, and putsout quite a bit of light.
Compared to the 70W, its light is noticeablycolder.
I know it hasn’t been tuned for plants, but my good friend Peter Stanley has used it successfully for growing peppers, and it'sworking well for me so far.
Look at the comparison with the 70W.
This is a very bright light, and only draws67W.
Definitely can light 3 10×20 trays, whichis how I’m using it, or maybe even 4 if you hang it a little higher.
I really like all these SANSI lights.
I’ve been using them for over 2 months now.
None have malfunctioned, and as you have seen, my plants are green and healthy.
Now back to the original question.
Which SANSI is right for you? It all comes down to how much area you wantto light.
The 10W and 15W would be a good choice fora single house plant or a small number of seedlings.
I’m using them to fill in coverage gapsin the basement.
The 24W and 36W can cover a larger area, andI think they would be perfect a larger plant or a couple of trays of seedlings.
The 60, 70 and 100W lights are the workhorses.
The 60W and 70W can cover 2 10×20 seedlingtrays with plenty of light.
and for me are doing a better job with muchless electricity than my old red/blue lights.
If you need to cover more area with just onelight, consider the 100W flood light.
In the future, maybe SANSI will deliver agrow light version of this model.
If you’re in the market for a grow light, I hope this special report has been helpful in selecting the right one for you.
If you want to buy a SANSI light or just learnmore, there are links to purchase in the description.
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I’m putting the finishing touches on a songI’ve been working on for a really long time, and creating a music video to go along withit.
I’m probably won’t be the next episode, but I hope to publish it in the next several weeks.
Be sure you have notifications turned on, because it’s my signature song and you won’t want to miss it.
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For 7 Pot Club, I’m Rob.
🎵 I grow hot peppers 🎵.